If you are looking for the best silk sarees in South India, Tamil Nadu is the ultimate destination for authentic handloom weaving. While many people only know about Kanchipuram, the state is home to several famous silk manufacturing hubs like Arani, Thirubuvanam, and Coimbatore, each offering a unique variety of Pattu. In this guide, we explore the different types of Pattu sarees in Tamil Nadu based on their weaving techniques, weight, and regional specialty to help you find the perfect drape for your next big occasion.
Traditional Heritage Types (The Heavyweights)
1. Korvai Pattu:
This is the hallmark of authentic Kanchipuram weaving, where the body and the border are woven as two separate pieces of silk. Using a labor-intensive “interlocking” technique and three shuttles, the weaver joins them together so strongly that the border will not detach even if the saree tears. This method is what allows for those strikingly bold, contrasting color combinations that are the signature of a traditional South Indian bride.
2. Vaira Oosi Pattu (Diamond Needle)
This rare and prestigious design features needle-thin pinstripes of pure zari running vertically across the entire body of the silk saree. The name translates to “Diamond Needle,” referring to the precision required to weave these shimmering metallic lines so closely together. It is a favorite in Kanchipuram and Thirubuvanam for those who want a saree that sparkles with every movement without having heavy, bulky motifs.
3 Thazhampoo Rekku Pattu
Known as the iconic “Temple Border,” this design features sharp, serrated triangular rows that resemble the gopurams (towers) of Tamil Nadu’s temples. The term “Thazhampoo” refers to the screw-pine flower, whose jagged petals inspire the shape of these borders. It is a timeless motif found in Kanchipuram and Rasipuram, symbolizing a bridge between the earthly and the divine.
Modern & Easy-Drape Types (The Boutique Favorites)
4. Soft Silk
High-lustre and incredibly lightweight, soft silk is the top choice for modern boutiques and younger customers who find traditional pattu too stiff. Manufactured primarily in Sirumugai and Arani, these sarees are treated to be more fluid and “weightless,” making them easy to drape and carry for several hours. They maintain the rich glow of mulberry silk while offering the comfort of a much lighter fabric.
5. Kora Silk
This is a unique specialty of Coimbatore, where fine silk is blended with premium cotton to create a “Sico” (Silk-Cotton) fabric. Kora silk is naturally breathable and has a crisp, sheer texture that keeps the wearer cool in Tamil Nadu’s humid weather. Because it stays in place perfectly once draped, it has become a staple for professional office wear and sophisticated daytime events.
6. Borderless Pattu
A fast-growing trend in modern fashion, borderless pattu sarees remove the traditional thick gold border to focus entirely on the body’s texture and a grand, heavy pallu. This style is often produced in Arani and Elampillai, catering to women who prefer a minimalist, sleek look. It allows the intricate body motifs and the richness of the silk fabric to be the main highlight of the outfit.
Cultural Artistry Types (The "Special" Picks)
7. Madurai Sungudi Pattu
Originating from the temple city of Madurai, these sarees are a masterpiece of the tie-dye (Bandhani) technique applied to silk. Each saree features thousands of tiny hand-knotted dots that form intricate patterns across the body, paired with a traditional silk zari border. It is one of the most culturally distinct sarees in Tamil Nadu, known for its vibrant colors and artisanal soul.
8. Jacquard Pattu (Powerloom Pattu)
This type features intricate raised patterns woven directly into the silk using a Jacquard loom, which allows for complex, embossed designs that look like embroidery. Popularly manufactured in Elampillai, these sarees offer a grand, designer appearance at a more accessible price point. The motifs can range from traditional floral vines to modern 3D-effect geometric shapes that add depth to the fabric.
9. Butta Pattu
Small, delicate motifs known as “Buttas” are scattered across the body of the saree, adding a touch of elegance without overwhelming the fabric. These motifs often depict traditional symbols like the Annam (swan), Mayil (peacock), or Manga (mango), and are a specialty of weavers in Rasipuram and Gudiyattam. It is the perfect choice for someone who wants a graceful, balanced look between plain silk and heavy brocade.
Occasion-Based Sorting
10. Wedding pattu (Bridal Wear)
For the main ceremony, the Heavy Korvai Kanchipuram or High-Lustre Thirubuvanam Pattu remains the ultimate statement, valued for its weight and heirloom status. A bride typically seeks the regal structure of a double-warp weave that carries traditional “temple” motifs to match the sanctity of the occasion.
11. Engagement & Wedding Guest Pattu
Arani Soft Silk is the perfect recommendation because it captures the luxurious look of a wedding saree without the heavy weight. It allows guests and relations to look festive and elegant while remaining comfortable enough to move around and enjoy the ceremony.
12. Fancy Pattu
Elampillai Fancy Pattu is the top choice for gifting due to its “grand look” and budget-friendly pricing. These sarees use modern weaving techniques to replicate the appearance of expensive silk, making them highly popular for bulk gifting during festivals and family functions.
Top Types of Pattu Sarees in Tamil Nadu: Final Thoughts
Choosing the right Pattu saree depends on the occasion, your comfort, and your personal style. Whether you prefer the architectural grandeur of a Kanchipuram Korvai or the lightweight elegance of an Arani soft silk, Tamil Nadu’s silk weaving clusters offer something for everyone. From traditional temple borders to modern borderless designs, these sarees are not just garments but a piece of South Indian heritage. Explore these diverse types of silk sarees to find a masterpiece that perfectly balances tradition and modern fashion.
Abirami R I love silk sarees and the stories behind them. My goal is to help you find the best, most authentic Tamil Nadu weaves for your collection.
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